[QuadList] What mechanical parts would one need to get a quad working?

[Don Norwood]

I'll strongly second Larry's comments about the AC wiring.  While the 
process is certainly not complicated, it takes quite a while to get it all 
done.  The "pigtails" that supply Colortec, Amtec, etc. are fairly simple, 
but some of the distribution wiring is harnessed in with other wiring such 
as in the case of the AC supply for the audio frame.

For a "purist" restoration, you can get new rubber insulated cable that 
matches the original, and while if that lasts another 40 years it certainly 
won't be a problem I have to deal with, I have used a different approach. 
As noted above, where the AC is bundled with other wires and cables, I 
prefer to have the power cables be more obvious so they don't look like a 
piece of RG-59.  In those instances, including the wiring to the 
frame-mounted power strips, I use yellow or orange "extension cord" cable of 
the correct gauge.  That makes it very easy to spot in the bundles.  For the 
pigtails, I generally use light gray IEC power cables cut to length, 
removing the female end and replacing it with the original connector. 
Obviously, black or any color would work, but again the light gray makes the 
cables easily distinguishable and I seem to accumulate lots of extra IEC 
cables, so it's a convenient source that eliminates having to make up one of 
the connectors.

Don Norwood
Digitrak Communications, Inc.
www.digitrakcom.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "L.E. Odham" <leodham at centurylink.net>


>
> It seems all the hi pressure limit switches are good here, and all the 
> vacuum limit diaphrams were bad-stuck. I think I have only had to replace 
> the vacuum ones.
> Yes, all the line cords and the wiring from the terminal block on back of 
> the PS chassis. There are several there that feed ac to the various fans, 
> the monitor bridge,or sidecar, and the guide servo.
> Usually you can just give them a little flex, and if they are brittle, 
> they will crack and pop-that's the insulation inside. Otherwise if they 
> flex freely like rubber is supposed to, theyre probably OK.
>
> Larry Odham
>